Sclareolate
CAS: 319002-92-1
Type: Herbal, floral top note
TGSC descriptors: floral, clary sage, bois de rose, bergamot, natural
Sclareolate is a material I've had trouble evaluating in the past (to the extent that I thought I was anosmic to it!), but it seems that after reevaluating regularly, it's decided to reveal itself to my nose! I pick up on a wet, fresh clary sage note that has crisp, leafy, herbal facets somewhat reminiscent of linalool but much softer and less ambiguous. It has a slightly terpenic and fresh spicy undertone reminiscent of Szechuan pepper which I found pretty interesting.
(Evaluated at 10% on paper)
Dihydro ionone beta
CAS: 17283-81-7
Type: Woody orris heart note
TGSC descriptors: earthy, woody, mahogany, orris, dry, amber
Dihydro ionone beta is one of the more woody members of the ionone family, with a noticeable dry woody-ambery facet compared to the more soft starchy violet/orris notes of the others. There is a transparent, crisp sweet berry-like sweet overtone to it, and its olfactory properties make it very suited for osmanthus accords as Philip Kraft suggests in Scent and Chemistry - it is uniquely positioned between the fresh floral, powdery ionone, and fruity lactone components, and acts as a bridge between them.
(Evaluated at 10% on paper)
Methyl cinnamate
CAS: 103-26-4
Type: Woody fruity heart note
TGSC descriptors: sweet, balsamic, strawberry, cherry, cinnamyl
Methyl cinnamate, at first sniff, is reminiscent of the jammy, fruity sweetness of ripe strawberries. However, it also has a noticeable dry woody and balsamic-spicy character to it which may limit its use in fruity compositions but could make it useful in amber accords, where it could add sweetness and lift to these usually heavy notes.
(Evaluated at 10% on paper)
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