The characteristic smell of citruses is mainly due to d-limonene, a volatile terpene found in large quantities in virtually all citrus fruit. However, what enables us to olfactorily differentiate sweet orange from lemon and bergamot from mandarin boils down to the trace components of the fruit.
For example, bergamot actually has more linalyl acetate, a herbal-floral compound, than d-limonene, whereas other citruses virtually do not contain any linalyl acetate. As for grapefruit, what sets it apart from other citruses (especially for its juice) is the presence of p-menth-1-ene-8-thiol, also known as grapefruit mercaptan, which has a pungent sulfurous odour at high concentration but adds juicy fruitiness in traces. It has one of the lowest odour thresholds for natural aroma compounds known to man, at an astonishing 0.1 ng/l in water (Scent and Chemistry, by Ohloff, Pickenhagen, and Kraft). As such, sulfurous molecules are often used in grapefruit flavours to add vividity and realism to what would otherwise be a bland flavour profile.
While sulfurous materials are not as commonly used in perfumery as they are in flavours, some, such as cassis (blackcurrant bud, a material that naturally contains sulfur compounds), can nevertheless be used to enhance citrus accords, as masterfully exemplified by the 3 fragrances reviewed below.
Guerlain - Pamplelune (1999)
Notes: Grapefruit, Blackcurrant, Patchouli
Created by Mathilde Laurent in 1999, Pamplelune is a sparkling grapefruit-centred fragrance that smells timeless and chic even 22 years later.
In Pamplelune, Laurent used a cocktail of citrus essential oils, including lemon and orange, comprising over a third of the formula. The composition is underscored with a striking sulfurous cassis note, imbuing it with a luminous, mouthwatering, effervescent character that is instantly reminiscent of biting into an ice-cold grapefruit slice, with juice and pulp flying everywhere.
Pamplelune is, in my opinion, a study in perfume construction; citrus notes are notoriously volatile, often fleeing from skin in minutes, leaving the rest of the composition behind - if not well balanced, this could be jarring, and weaknesses in the base notes would immediately become apparent. However, Pamplelune is not only monolithic in that it retains its character all the way to its drydown, but is also incredibly long-lasting for a citrus fragrance, with over 6 hours of performance in summer. Bravo! (8.5/10)
Pamplelune can be purchased from the Guerlain website at £69/£91 for 75/125 ml.
Laboratorio Olfattivo - Mandarino (2020)
Notes: Italian tangerine, Blackcurrant, White musk
In Mandarino, the master of minimalism Jean-Claude Ellena uses cassis as well, this time as a supporting note to enhance and extend the juicy tartness of the mandarin. However, as mandarin is not naturally sulfurous and instead leans more floral than grapefruit, he uses a fruitier, less tart cassis accord to bolster the citrus notes, as well as a touch of bittersweet caramellic notes to underscore its sticky sweetness.
The result? Something that deviates from the typical bright, aldehydic notes of mandarin rind, but instead serves a vivid impression of canned mandarin sections in light syrup. Through the packaging and pasteurisation, the citrus has lost most of its top notes - what remains is the slightly tangy and definitely sweet fruitiness of the pulp, with a hint of the bitter walls that separate the segments.
While realistic and definitely great in terms of construction, I prefer my citruses to be refreshing and zesty, so Mandarino was a slight letdown for me. (6.5/10)
Mandarino can be purchased from the Laboratorio Olfattivo website at €94 for 100 ml.
Armani Privé - Orangerie Venise (2019)
Notes: Bergamot, Buchu, Black pepper, Citrus, Petitgrain, Neroli, Cedarwood, Moss, Ambroxan
Dominique Ropion is known for his unapologetically bold style in putting certain notes at the forefront of the composition, and Orangerie Venise is no exception.
Buchu, a shrub whose extract is used in the flavouring industry for its fruity, sulfurous blackcurrant scent and taste, has not found widespread use in perfumery yet despite its more attractive price compared to the expensive blackcurrant bud absolute. This is likely due to the prominent minty notes that accompany the fruity facets of its olfactory profile, which may be considered undesirable in cassis accords.
In Orangerie Venise, Ropion allows the rarely-used material to shine through with all its facets. Its minty top notes boost the cool, leafy freshness of petitgrain and bitter orange, creating an arresting opening that feels icy, and even frigid. As the top notes settle, the blackcurrant aspects begin to appear, bringing a mouthwatering juiciness to the citruses and an unexpectedly fruity-green twist to the neroli note.
Whilst the drydown is relatively safe and typical of modern citrus cologne-style compositions with clean, soapy neroli notes mingling with musks and ambroxan, the top to mid of Orangerie Venise is strikingly unique and beautiful and puts a unique spin on the well-explored genre. Definitely check it out if you can. (8.5/10)
Orangerie Venise can be purchased from the Armani Beauty website at £96/£138 for 50/100 ml.
Note: The reviews above were based off samples I purchased myself. All opinions expressed are mine only.
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