Escentric Molecules has undoubtedly been a groundbreaking brand. While it actually was the second, not the first, company to release single molecules as fragrances (Velviona by Helmut Lang is only made of velvione, a macrocyclic musk), its runaway success with Molecule 01 (comprised of Iso Gamma Super, a captive version of Iso E Super), released in 2006, has revolutionised the perfume industry and catapulted individual aromachemicals into the spotlight.
Since then, Molecules 02 to 05 (ambroxan, vetiveryl acetate, javanol, and cashmeran respectively), together with their corresponding Escentric counterparts, have been released. As opposed to the unimolecular approach of the Molecule series, the Escentric line is comprised of fragrances (in the more conventional sense, i.e. with multiple ingredients) constructed around each star material to exemplify and showcase its key qualities.
In 2021, Geza Schoen, the perfumer behind Escentric Molecules decided to go down a different route; instead of releasing a single molecule and its counterpart fragrance constructed in a more conventional way, he decided to pair Iso Gamma Super and a natural material instead.
He explained that his partner loved iris and asked him to create an iris soliflore - and with his trademark style, he paired the iris note with a large dose of Iso Gamma Super, and both his partner and the people around her were both captivated by its scent. The great reception compelled him to launch it commercially together with 2 other fragrances also featuring carefully chosen natural essences - mandarin and patchouli, and thus the Molecule + line was born.
Molecule 01 + Iris falls, olfactorily and conceptually, between Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 - it has the sleekness and streamlined quality of Molecule 01, but is complex enough to retain the wearer's interest as it develops.
Molecule 01 + Iris is a sleek, classy fragrance. It opens up with some abstract bergamot-like freshness and a noticeable dose of sunny, floral hedione, which rounds off the starchy qualities of the (very expensive!) iris pallida absolute used here while lifting up its smooth, buttery facets.
While the expected woody-ambery facets brought about by Iso Gamma Super are present, it seems that the captive version used here does add a certain je ne sais quoi that standard qualities of Iso E Super lacks, and is also much smoother than alternative versions like Timbersilk. Interestingly, I also pick up on some skin-like saline qualities that give the composition a curious human warmth, which brings a fascinating contrast against the colder, austere iris.
Taken together, the different components combine to give a fuzzy, velvety olfactory texture that is cold and warm at the same time: sniffing it is like nuzzling your nose into a previously worn scarf - it may be cold now, but you can sense the olfactory traces of human warmth left within.
Escentric Molecules - Molecule 01 + Iris
Perfumer: Geza Schoen
Notes: Iso Gamma Super, Iris
The Molecule + line can be purchased at £95 for 100 ml or £25 for 7.5 ml on the Escentric Molecules website.
The bottom line:
Molecule 01 + Iris is a sleek, streamlined composition in the vein of Escentric Molecules' previous launches that aims to exemplify the qualities of both Iso Gamma Super as well as the titular natural material - and successfully does so with its minimalist but addictive qualities. (8/10)
Disclaimer: This review was based on a sample I purchased myself. All opinions expressed here are mine only.