In the perfume industry, many ad copies boast of the natural ingredients they contain, but often neglect to mention the synthetic materials used, reflecting and perpetuating a preconceived notion that "natural is better".
Corps Volatils aims to break these conventions and bridge science and nature by presenting perfumery raw materials, both synthetic and natural, on equal footing and at the forefront of their 24 compositions. 12 of them are fully natural, while the other 12
place synthetic molecules in their long-awaited places in the spotlight.
As a child, I used to tiptoe in front of my grandma’s stove just to catch a whiff of the desserts bubbling away inside her pot. The steam would often carry the aroma of dried orange peels, a uniquely fragrant herbal ingredient, which was usually combined with red beans and lily bulbs in traditional Chinese desserts.
I never expected to be sent on a trip down memory lane, years later and half the world away, but I was instantly transported back to those formative years by the mandarin-patchouli blend in Corps Volatils' Extracted Jasmine, with its unmistakable combination of citrusy, herbal, and woody notes.
Extracted Jasmine, brimming with zesty, effervescent mandarin, is a definite mood-booster, and a subtle dose of sweet floralcy from jasmine sambac provides additional lift and sparkle. A judicious touch of black pepper lends its woody warmth to bridge the gap between the drier, pithier citrusy notes and the patchouli drydown. Unlike regular patchouli extracts, the Patchouli Coeur No.4 used here is a specific fraction of the distillate which focuses on the soft, loamy facets, and nicely rounds off the drydown by cushioning the aldehydic citrusy notes.
If there’s one thing I would change about Extracted Jasmine, it would be to have a larger dose of the titular material. As a jasmine fiend, I had expected the fragrance to have a more noticeable jasmine sambac note, which would lend it an aura of sensuality. Nevertheless, as a lover of naturalistic scents, I still greatly enjoyed Extracted Jasmine,
and it is a delightful pick-me-up, especially in warm weather.
Corps Volatils recommends pairing Extracted Jasmine with Synthetised Citrus, which consists of nootkatone, an expensive molecule (reminiscent of methyl pamplemousse and vertacetal, but significantly more long-lasting) that combines the dry bitterness of grapefruit pith and aromatic dryness of hemp. The duo, which I paired in a 3:1 ratio, really makes the composition pop – the blend of citrusy, tart, and floral notes conjure up the impression of mouthwatering rhubarb and adds a whole new dimension to the scent.
Extracted Jasmine stays on my skin for around 6-8 hours, and throughout most of its lifetime, it maintains a gentle, breezy, unobtrusive presence.
Synthetised Citrus, on the other hand, remains perceptible on me for 12+ hours, and generates a small scent bubble.
Corps Volatils - Extracted Jasmine
Perfumer: Caroline Dumur
Notes: Indian jasmine sambac MD, Mandarin oil, Indian sesame absolute, Madagascan black pepper oil, Madagascan pink pepper oil, Indonesian patchouli Coeur No.4, Australian sandalwood oil, Virginian cedarwood oil.
Corps Volatils - Synthetised Citrus
Notes: Nootkatone
The bottom line:
Extracted Jasmine is a delicate, but sunny citric-floral composition that never fails to put a smile on my face, although I do wish there was more jasmine in it. (7.5/10)
Synthetised Citrus is a linear, but complex and multifaceted molecule that bridges the notes of grapefruit, rhubarb, and hemp. Its warmth and longevity makes it unusual amongst other citric fragrances. (6.5/10)
Disclaimer: The bottles were generously provided by Corps Volatils through CaFleureBon. However, opinions expressed in the post are mine and were not influenced in any way.
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